Day 3: Palas de Rei to Meride

Today was a perfect day on the Camino. The time I took for a little self care made a world of difference. The body heals, and I felt like a new person. Filled with gratitude, we started the day with a renewed spirit. The Camino would be a success today.

As we chatted over breakfast at The Mica, our charming hotel, we got to meet Marita, the owner. She’s a lovely, soft-spoken woman who seems to be involved in everything—from greeting guests at the reception to whipping up a delicious breakfast.

Marita opened up about the hotel’s history, which she explained is a family legacy. It all started with her husband’s parents, and you could tell how much love and care they put into it. One interesting thing she shared was that one of her parents was Cuban. As she talked about her family, we got a glimpse into her life. It felt great to connect with someone through our shared heritage. It was such a warm and inviting conversation that turned our breakfast into something special, making us feel more like friends than just guests.

We set out just before 8 am on another cool and beautiful spring morning. Right next to the hotel, we found a water fountain, common throughout the towns and countryside. We filled our water bottles and began our walk.

As we left the city of Palas de Rei behind, we were happily surprised that the terrain was vastly different at the start of the day than it was the day before. It was flat! Hallelujah! No hills to begin the journey.

Walking without pain…I was so grateful in the moment. One foot in front of the other was my mantra, as I took in the sights and smells of the countryside. Listening to the birds chirping and the sound of my steps on the dirt and gravel roads made me feel alive and present. With the day to day work and life responsibilities it’s often hard to reflect on the things that really matter. On the Camino, you have nothing but time to think. And meet people of course!

On today’s walk we met an author. Sitting by the road, in front of her home was Kelly Fields. Kelly was a Nordstrom executive from Seattle. She decided to do the Camino, the entire 500 mile long Camino, a few years back. At the end, her husband told her he had never seen her so happy. She decided then to leave her life in Seattle and move to Spain. Her husband was on board.

Ms. Fields told us that everyone thought they were crazy. But she has never regretted that decision. Life in Galicia is quiet and peaceful. She wrote a novel about the people she met on the Camino, their stories, their reasons for doing the pilgrimage. Her journey was transformative, as it is for so many.

We bought one of her books, and she graciously signed and stamped it. I treasure that special moment. Meeting Kelly, and hearing her story.

Kelly suggested we visit a church that dates back to the 5th century. The 5th century! On our way to explore the church, we met up with our doctor friends again. Together we visited the church.

Church from the 5th century.

The Camino from Palas de Rei to Melide was enjoyable from the start. We did have some steep hills but most of the day we walked on flat paths. We enjoyed the medieval villages, the little cafes, and the people.

Beatriz and Javi from Malaga

When we reached the end for the day we were elated! We did it. We pushed through and it was so satisfying. Our hotel was not in the city but a bit farther out. We stopped to ask a local where we could get cash and a cab. We met Siriano.

Half an hour later, we were still talking to this amazing gentleman. In May, Siriano will be 95. He was full of stories about his life in Galicia and his family. We asked him what his secret was to a full and happy life. He said, “You must move your body and take care of yourself. A little wine and dancing helps! I love music, and I love to dance.”

On our way to the hotel, we had the pleasure of meeting a lovely family from England. We shared a cab and enjoyed getting to know one another along the way. I had a feeling this next accommodation would be my favorite, but I had no idea just how magical it would turn out to be.

Casa Brandariz dates back to 1523. It was a rural farmhouse that has been restored for modern day life, while maintaining the historical details and charm. The fountain we sat in front of in the dining room was a source of water for the horses.

The house is now a hotel and restaurant. The restaurant is in the Michelin registry of restaurants and it did not disappoint.

Staying at the Casa Brandaris was the perfect ending to our third day on the Camino. Getting a full-body massage upon arrival, eating a delicious meal with good wine, and a restful night’s sleep would assure a good start to our next day. The journey awaits.

Here are some more photos of the day.

Leave a comment